Fit versus the fit
My grand mum was a fashionista! She was this gorgeous lady, prim and proper, married to an army officer, and very very stylish! And she told me a story when I started pursuing apparel design. The story of her garment maker who used to make her saree blouses. This old gentleman- masterji, as he was lovingly called – used to come home to take her orders. In those days this masterji was never expected to glance at the lady of the house. And so this gentleman would stand with his head bowed, my grand mum would extend her wrist, and he would measure her wrist by making a ring around it with his thumb and the middle finger…and go on to construct a fitted choli for her, with seams to mould the breast!!!
I would want to hear this story all the time. Because I did not fathom how could a man measure the bust with the wrist measure. But he did…perhaps the pulse? Perhaps the proportion? Perhaps he looked when we weren’t looking?
One thing which intrigues me is the mind set of women where the ‘fit’ of a garment is concerned. We make women’s clothes and hence I shall not lose focus from our basic audience. A good fit may not necessarily mean the garment is fitted to the body. In fact it is absolutely the opposite. A great fit is when the garment flows over a body, hugs it at places it is designed to hug and gently caresses the rest of the area. Take a snug bodice for instance. There is very little air space between the garment and the body. A bodice also is one of the most technically designed piece of apparel and it holds the bust of a woman. The intrinsic idea of fitting a bodice, in my mind is to be able to engulf the bust, hold the arms beautifully and ensure there aren’t any technical glitches of roping on the curves.
Coming back to the mindset of women where ‘fit’ is concerned, I would love an audience who is sensitive towards a design, towards the garment-finish and who also respects the fabric’s fall. Respect a garment for what it is!
“The dress must follow the body of a woman, not the body following the shape of the dress”